Finally Sailing Again!
Finally we have shaken off the winter blues and got back into sailing shape, and what a good start to the season! Famagusta, or by the Turkish Cypriot name Gazimagusa, was the perfect place to visit for a spring break, and I have quite a lot to update.
We set out from Haifa on the 12th, Passover eve, with a light southwesterly wind of 8 knots or so, and motersailed at our usual leisurely pace of around 5 knots. Generally we like to wait for fair winds and sail, but this time we were sailing with guests who didnt have unlimited time to bob about in the middle of the Mediterranean, so we sacrificed quiet to speed, and made a beesline straight for Famagusta ( avoiding Cape Greco though, to keep out of trouble from the Greek Turkish idiotic attempts at embargoing Famagusta). Dolphins met us as the sun set, and swam effortlessly around and under us as we plowed our way northwards, and soon after that the full moon rose, lighting our way like a powerful beacon. The wind dropped completely, and our speed picked up a bit as the sea turned into a smooth, glassy tablecloth. Where our bow wave rippled the water, plankton flashed and sparkled, making a little underwater firework display. Suddenly we remembered what it was we love about sailing. Orens brothers, Uri and Boaz, Uris daughter Bat- Ami and Orens son Hillel, all played cards, chess and backgammon almost all the way, with breaks to eat salami sandwiches and quite a lot of carrots for some reason.
After a really relaxed and uneventful motersail with, amazingly for us, no mechanical problems, we arrived in Famagusta at 1 o’clock in the morning on Thursday, 38 hours in all. Famagusta isnt one of the places where they stay around just in case anyone turns up, so we tied up to the by now familiar wooden jetty and went to sleep. In the morning clearing in was easy and delightful, with the traditional Turkish Cypriot custom of offering tea to the skipper! Clearing in and out, plus five days in the port, is still free, as long as you dont arrive on Saturday or Sunday, when there is an overtime charge.
Taking our bicycles this year gave us a big improvement in our range of exploration, and we managed to get to know the city a lot better, although we had to take turns with two bikes between six of us! We took a dolmus to Girne too, and this is a cheap and very nice way to get to see the stunning scenery of Northern Cyprus.
There have been changes since last year, when we first discovered Famagusta. Last year, many very old cars could be seen still running well. Suddenly, this year, all of them have gone, and at first we thought that we had imagined them. But no, actually this is just a symptom of what is really happening here. Money has started to arrive here in the form of government loans, European Community grants and foreign investment. The vote on unification of Cyprus last year, in which the Turkish Cypriots voted yes while the Greek Cypriots voted no, has created an interesting situation. All Cypriots, both Greek and Turkish, have European passports now. This means that there is very little reason for the hostile border between the two parts of the island, since according to European law all citizens of the EU have the right to visit any other part. It also means that more foreign tourists are arriving, although most visit Girne (Kirynia) on the other shore, rather than Famagusta.
We usually like to hear what the local people think, and talked to several well informed Famagusteans who seem to have similar opinions that basically what is happening is bad. The influx of cash has driven prices up but salaries havent risen, and although everyone has bought cars because they have received loans, ordinary Cypriots can no longer buy land or property, as property prices have skyrocketed. We certainly noticed that lamb has risen in price a lot since last year, and now costs around 20 lira per kilo, no longer cheap for us.
Other changes which will probably take place this year include a marina inside the port of Famagusta. Gem, the entrepreneur who has received permission to develop it, says that it will meanwhile occupy a small area on the western wall of the harbour, and later will move to the eastern side after a new road is built. While a marina might be a nice idea if there are showers and toilets, we really like Famagusta as it is, and worry that the changes will make this into one more Mediterranean holiday destination, with the population as a whole not really getting much benefit from this.
Heres a picture from last years visit, until I can get round to putting some of this years pics in. Nothing has changed, by the way! This is a ruined church dating from the Crusader era, and is right in the middle of the old city adjoining the port.
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